Now, the Stonemasters (whoever they may have been) were always a good group to go climbing with. The assembled group (always spontaneous, seldom planned) would head up to the crag and, somehow, the day's project would coalesce. If someone had something in mind, that would be the target. And, often that project would be a mass ascent. A massively multiplayer game...
Infrequently, it would be a new line. Someone would have some bolts in their bag, and we'd draw straws to appoint someone to go "stand on the dimes" and pound the sucker home. Of course, the rest would have a toprope, so no worries... A good example of this is, I'm pretty sure, was a modest little route on Suicide called "Jigsaw" on the Sunkist Face. (Vogel calls it a 10a *, FA: Tobin Sorenson, Bill Antel, John Long, Rob Muir, Richard Harrison and Bruce Foster.)
I actually recall that there were others, and it seems to me that there were ten (10) folk on the first, but whatever... The point is, it was fun, we had friends, and we all lent moral support to the endeavor. It was a kick to heckle the leader and everyone got a share of the action. Plus, the joint-effort (pun intended) meant that we were developing a common lore and communal bond.
The "push" was always there, and the (usually) good-natured banter helped each of us to climb a bit above the ordinary. Everyone was "good", we were all "equals" in skills and--damn it--we always needed to prove it to each other! ;-) So most weekends were filled with new projects.
But sometimes it was just to check out the competition... And, in many instances, the competition was the older generation. Guys like Kamps, Higgins, Ivan, Dent, and those LA boys, Frost, Yvon, TM, Robbins... They put up many of days' test pieces, and we needed to see if we could meet the challenge. So, if a new route wasn't in the cards, happenstance meant sending someone up some unknown line just to make sure the aura was kept in check.
I don't recall when it was, but Tobin plays prominent in this story. So it must have been prior to 1980... Largo could always be counted-on to come up with a project, and he usually could suck^h^h^h^h convince someone to tie into the sharp end. Tobin was a willing lad, always one to please.
Somehow, we were up near the summit of Tahquitz; having done what, I can't recall. (Was it the mass ascent of The Hangover?) Anyway, there were 8, 10 or a dozen of us, and Largo said, "Tobin, this one!" Pointing to... (Help me out here, guys.) Either Big Daddy (5.10c FFA: Frost & Higgens) or Upsidedown Cake (5.10b, FA: Higgins & Kamps). Don't recall if any of us had done either of these, but that didn't matter... It would be cake, and then the rest of us would have a top rope.
Now the rock was friable in places, the first 15 feet were easy and then there was this awkward bit, somewhat poorly protected with an OLD fixed Lost Arrow or summat... And, above was a flared crack jutting through an overhang. Hardly a ripe plum. Even chausey. But, like I said, Tobin was game. Not to mention sometimes bold and foolhardy.
So, off he goes. Tied into some 2" swami, up he led to the fixed pin. From below, we all watched with good-hearted chuckles and encouragements, as he clipped-in to a "reportedly" manky pin. But with no hammer, he couldn't do anything to drive it further home. Up he lofts, looking increasing shakey as the rock gets softer and the grit starts raining down. "Tobin, drop in some pro..." But there's not much to work with, as the crack is pretty rounded and shallow.
You had to climb with Tobin, to know that courage and speed could usually overcome the fear of long falls or bad protection. Why spend time mucking-around with runners and sh#t, if you'd be through the hard part soon enough? Trust in providence...
But Tobin does land the requisite nut, and adds a longer runner so that the trailing cord won't dislodge it. "Whew. That's better," says the throng at the base, enjoying the show.
And Tobin heads to the roof...
Now things start to get quiet and just a bit tense. Tobin is starting to flounder, and things are getting more awkward. Tobin climbs up into the flair, and then retreats down a bit. The clock is ticking. He tries it again, but doesn't get too much farther and it's pretty clear that the jams are shallow and insecure. More pebbles pepper the people. The EBs are skating.
Now the ribbing is always there, and it sometimes masks the mutual affection that we Stonemasters had for one another. No one wants anyone hurt, and the invincibility of youth means no one will. But the rude mug of danger is rearing its ugly head, and Tobin is staring it right in the eye. He's still hanging in there... He glances at us, we stare back at him, and things aren't quite so fun at the moment.
He shifts his feet. More sand. The hands begin to loosen, and he trys to re-slot. Oh dear....
Now he's, like, sixty feet up and the base slants up and to the right so the spectators are RIGHT THERE with him. Hes been hanging for 10 or 15 minutes, trying to fight through this overhang, and then it happens...
Down slides the nut, and the 'biner clinks up against the lone, questionable piton. Tobin doesn't know this. He's busy. Oh god!
"Say, Tobin, how 'bout the right foot?" "Can you down climb a bit?" "Match hands!"
Tobin: "Hey, Richard, ya got me? I'm gonna drop."
The assembled throng: (In unison.) "NO! Don't drop, man!!" "Keep going!"
Tobin: (Argumentatively.) "No, I'm gonna drop."
Us: (With feeling and emphasis.) "NOOOO!" "Don't!"
Argument over. Whump, down he drops, lifting Richard Harrison right up into the air, and bringing Tobin into equilibrium again 10 feet from the deck. Whump, the air is thrust from our lungs, as a dark silence drops on the fun. Whump and whew! Tobin is quietly lowered to the earth, leaving a rope draped through the single peg of chromoly.
No one's in a hurry to show Tobin up, after that. But Largo does have the Scottish good sense to go retrieve the biner... And climbs up to find that the so-called fixed piton can be lifted out with a finger!
While it lasted, Tobin climbed with the angels. No one was ever as lucky he!
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